Thursday, June 30, 2011

Recommended Reading: A Weird, Wonderful Ramble Through 'Other Europe'


On The Road to Babadac - Travels in the Other Europe
Andrzej Stasiuk is a restless and indefatigable traveler. His journeys take him from his native Poland to Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Slovenia, Albania, Moldova, and Ukraine. By car, train, bus, ferry. To small towns and villages with unfamiliar-sounding yet strangely evocative names. “The heart of my Europe,” Stasiuk tells us, “beats in Sokolow, Podlaski, and in Husi, not in Vienna.”

Read a review and excerpt from the book on NPR.org


Monday, June 20, 2011

Reading Recommendations for Hungary




Non-Fiction:

Danube by Claudio Magris 
"More than a thoroughfare linking Europe and Asia, the Danube, for Magris, is symbol and nourisher of a hinterland, a Germanic/Magyar/Slavic/Jewish/Central European culture counterposed to northern and western Europe. As he follows the river from the Bavarian hills to the Black Sea, lingering at villages, castles, Viennese cafes, ancient ruins and cemeteries, the author, a professor of German literature at the University of Trieste, offers a sustained, rich, often profound meditation on diverse themes: the tension between Greco-Roman and Teutonic civilization, the roots of fascism, Napoleon as a personification of modern, clashing nationalisms, etc. We read of Hapsburg splendor and decline, Nazi evil, Slavic soul-searching, Rumania as melting-pot of races and cultures. This sequence of stately tableaux is steeped in cultural and historical references to the likes of Kafka and Kepler, Haydn, Heidegger, Elias Canetti, George Konrad, Vasko Popa." --Publishers Weekly


Budapest 1900: A Historical Portrait of a City and Its Culture by John Lukacs
"During the period 1896-1906, Budapest, in contrast to its twin capital Vienna, was an optimistic, self-confident, less neurotic, relatively new city, characterized by both virile provinciality and urbane Magyar sensitivity. Lukacs, who has written histories of 20th century Europe and the U.S., here presents a portrait of Budapest's physical and material conditions, its people and politics, their achievements, troubles, art and culture, both around the year 1900 and later, with the rise of nationalism and of anti-Semitism. Budapest's class-conscious society had a tremendous respect for intellectual achievement and an impressive outpouring of talent, but because the Hungarian language is little known beyond its borders, few of its major literary figures achieved prominence elsewhere. Still, an astonishing number of Budapestians have become famous abroad, especially in America, among them Bela Bartok, George Lukacs and Arthur Koestler. This is a reliable account of a beautiful city at the zenith of its prosperity, with a brief final chapter describing the subsequent 80 years." --Publishers Weekly


Balkan Ghosts: A Journey Through History by Robert Kaplan
"Kaplan, an American journalist who lived in Greece for seven years, is a gifted writer with a marvelous feel for the exotic, woolly, mountainous Balkan peninsula. This vividly impressionistic travelogue splices a long trip in 1990 with sojourns in the '80s and forays into history, resulting in an unpredictable adventure that illuminates the Balkan nations' ethnic clashes and near-anarchic politics. Kaplan dwells on Greece's modern political culture, which, he shows, has much closer ties to the multiethnic Balkans than is generally acknowledged. He views Romania's history as a long, desperate compromise with a succession of invaders, marred by decades of Turkish rule, Nazism and Communism. He talks with Gypsies, scales steep Baroque cities, tours Transylvania, Bulgaria and Albania and visits the remnant Jewish community of Salonika, which was decimated by the Nazis. Kaplan ( Soldiers of God: With the Mujahidin in Afghanistan ) sheds light on the Serb-Croat dispute, which he traces in part back to Croatia's fascists of WW II and to the Vatican's perceived stirring up of anti-Semitic feelings among Croats. He finds seeds of civil war germinating in Yugoslavia, where he confronts 'the principal illness of the Balkans: conflicting dreams of lost imperial glory.'"


Cafe Europa: Life After Communism by Slavenka Drakulic
"Drakulic (How We Survived Communism and Even Laughed) notes that Eastern Europeans are so anxious to become like their Western counterparts that every city and town has a Cafe Europa that is a pale imitation of similar establishments in Paris and Rome. She presents here a collection of essays that explore life in various Eastern European countries since the fall of communism. As a citizen of Croatia (formerly a part of Yugoslavia) living now in Vienna with her Swedish husband, she writes knowingly as a survivor of a communist regime, as one who realizes that pitfalls still lie ahead for nations emerging from the Soviet yoke. In Albania, she observes rage everywhere in people who seem to want to smash all vestiges of the Hoxha regime. In Romania, she comments on the execrable state in which public toilets are maintained: "[T]he standard of Romanian toilets reflects the nature of the communist system of which it is a legacy"; "the absence of any improvement is... a warning for the future of democracy" there. Drakulic's pungent and insightful ruminations not only describe life in her part of the world?she makes us feel it as well."--Publishers Weekly

Between the Woods and the Water
"'Between the Woods and the Water' continues Patrick Leigh Fermor's celebrated epic account of his journey at the age of eighteen, in 1933, from the Hook of Holand to Constantinople. Here he travels down the Danube from Budapest, across the Great Hungarian Plain on horseback, and over the Rumanian border into Transylvania. "

Fiction:

Prague by Arthur Phillip
"In Prague, Arthur Phillips's sparkling, Kundera-flavored debut, five young Americans converge in Budapest in the early 1990s. Most are there by chance, like businessman Charles Gabor, whose parents were Hungarian. But one of them, John Price, has the more novelistic motivation of lost love. He is following his older brother, Scott, intent on achieving an intimacy that Scott, a language teacher and health enthusiast, is just as intently trying to escape. The romantic hero of this unsentimental novel, John Price lives like an expatriate of the 1920s. He longs for experience (and more or less stumbles into a writing job for an English language paper), but even more so for the great, obliterating love that takes the form of the perky assistant Emily Oliver. Mark Payton, a scholar of nostalgia whose insights are touched with mysticism, seems often to speak for the author, even in his barely repressed desire for John Price. For who would not love the good and unaffected, in the confusion, opportunism, and irony that characterize fin-de-siècle Europe? Phillips's five seekers are like mirrors that reflect Budapest at different angles, and that imperfectly--but wonderfully--point toward the unattainable city: the glittering, distant Prague." - Publishers Weekly


The Historian by Elizabeth Kostova
"In this smart retelling of the Dracula story, a young girl's discovery of a mysterious book, blank save for a sinister woodcut of a dragon, impels her father to divulge, reluctantly, details of his vampire-hunting days back in grad school. Halfway through his tale, which is told over several sessions in various atmospheric European locations, he vanishes. His daughter's quest to find him is interwoven with letters that reveal the past in full. Kostova's knowledge of occult arcana is impressive, and she packages her erudition in a graceful narrative that only occasionally lapses into melodrama. The structure—a story within a letter within a flashback—is an innovative complication, but it is soon shaken off by the swift-moving plot. Kostova never strays far from the conventions of the genre, and her historical thriller feels somewhat indebted to best-sellers of the recent past; there are Christian heresies, scholarly sleuths, and a malaprop-prone Eastern European guide. " The New Yorker

more: http://www.bibliotravel.com/locale.php?locale=361

Good Eats






Expert recommendations for the best places to eat in four price ranges: budget ($), moderate ($$), expensive ($$$), and luxury ($$$$)

$


Főzelékfaló Ételbár
The house specialty is Főzelék—vegetables, such as lentils and green peas, prepared in a creamy sauce. Meat lovers have plenty of options to accompany the veggies. Located off to Andrássy út. VI. Nagymező utca 18.

Kisharang Étkezde
“Lovely to have an almost ‘homemade’ hearty paprika chicken or a large bowl of mushroom soup at such reasonable prices.”—Katalin Rácz, food section author, Blue Guide Budapest. A small, cozy place packed with people, especially at lunch time; quick and friendly service. V. Október 6 utca 17; tel. 31 1 269 3861.

$$

Rokfort Étterem
Serves many Hungarian specialties, including excellent goulash soup. Popular lunch spot for professionals from nearby publishing houses, ministries, and lawyers’ offices. Near Parliament; pleasant terrace in the summer. V. Honvéd utca 18; tel. 36 1 269 1072.

Kőleves Vendéglő
“Excellent matzo ball soup and a very creative matzo flodni, a Jewish dessert made with walnut, poppy seed, and apples, but here with matzo instead of the usual pastry.”—Katalin Rácz. In the heart of the Jewish district; no pork dishes, though not kosher. VII. Dob utca 26; tel. 36 1 322 1011.

Borbiróság
The name means “wine courthouse,” and 120 varieties from Hungary’s best cellars are available, 60 served by the glass. Wide choice of dishes, including the house favorite roast knuckle of lamb. Located close to the Central Market. IX. Csarnok tér 5; tel. 36 1 219 0902.


Café Kör
Reliable Hungarian fare with an international flavor, near the Basilica. Relaxed atmosphere, cash only, reservations essential. Breakfast is served from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. V. Sas utca 17; tel. 36 1 311 0053.


$$$

Két Szerecsen
A stone’s throw from the Opera House, on Budapest’s Broadway. Short but constantly changing menu with seasonal ingredients. Open late so it’s ideal for a post-opera meal, though reservations are recommended. VI. Nagymező utca 14; tel. 36 1 343 1984.


Náncsi Néni Vendéglője
“Good traditional food in homely surroundings.”—Andreea Anca, style editor, Budapest Sun. In the green area of Buda, lovely big garden in the summer; curd cheese dumplings are an all-time favorite. II. Ördögárok utca 80; tel. 36 1 397 2742.

Remiz
“Great place in summer if you are with kids, as they have a secure outdoor playground.”—Allan Boyko, editor, The Budapest Times. Menu often changes depending on the season; favorites include crispy catfish and spicy pasta with truffle. Piano and trumpet duo in the evenings. II. Budakeszi út 5; tel. 36 1 275 1396.

Centrál Kávéház és Étterem
This traditional Budapest coffeehouse became the center of intellectual discussion when it opened in 1887. Renovated in 2000 after a 50-year hiatus. Hungarian and international cuisine; marble tables, comfortable leather armchairs and sofas; gourmet coffees and draft beers. Frequent Gypsy and piano music. V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9; tel. 36 1 266 2110.

KOGART Étterem • Kávézó
“The French chef adds a touch of sophistication to nice Hungarian and Mediterranean dishes.”—Andreea Anca. Formal wood-panel interior and more casual garden terrace. VI. Andrássy út 112; tel. 36 1 354 3820.

$$$$

Kárpátia Étterem és Söröző
“If you want a feel for fin-de-siècle Budapest, this is the place.”—Robin Marshall, editor, Budapest Sun. Traditional Hungarian dishes with creative variations on goose liver by new generation chef Tamás Bereznay. Listen to Gypsy music in the elegant main restaurant and grab a beer in the brasserie. V. Ferenciek tere 7-8; tel. 36 1 317 3596.


Múzeum Kávéház és Étterem
By the National Museum; dating from 1885. Open kitchen where guests can view sea and freshwater fish dishes being prepared; also Hungarian specialties, including game, goose, and lamb. Evening piano music; closed Sundays. VIII. Múzeum körút 12; tel. 36 1 267 0375.

Gundel Étterem
One of the city’s most famous restaurants, noted for its excellent cuisine. Exclusive interior with period furnishings and paintings; lovely garden; behind the Fine Arts Museum in the City Park. Queen Elizabeth II and other royalty have been guests, but lunchtime menus attract ordinary folk with more affordable prices and friendly service. XIV. Állatkerti út 2; tel. 36 1 468 4040.

Some Basics






Dos and Don’ts

Shaking Hands: Hungarians almost always shake hands on meeting. At a social gathering, it is quite common to go around the room or table shaking hands with everyone as you introduce yourself.

Greetings: On meeting and leaving someone, it is customary to say “hello” and “goodbye,” even to strangers, including in shops or in elevators.

Manners: At a social gathering, particularly if invited to someone’s home, it is regarded as impolite to sip a drink as soon as it is served. Wait until the host or hostess has finally filled his or her glass, raises it, and says the Hugarian equivalent of  “cheers.”

Names: Hungarian names are inverted with the surname, or last name, listed first.

Flowers: Flower shops are ubiquitous in Budapest. Among Hungarians it is almost a mania to present flowers to a female on her name (saint’s) day, and certainly to the hostess if invited to someone’s home.


Phrase Book

Good day/hello: Jó napot kivánok. Pronounced yo nup-ot kee-VAH-nok.

Good morning (early): Jó reggelt. Pronounced yo reggelt.

Good evening: Jó estét. Pronounced yo esh-tate.

Good night: Jó éjszakát. Pronounced yo A-sa-kaht.

Goodbye: Viszontlátásra. Pronounced vee-ssont-la-tash-ra.

Yes: Igen. Pronounced eegen.

No: Nem. Pronounced nem.

Thank you: Köszönöm. Pronounced kurssurnurm.

Thank you very much: Köszönöm szépen. Pronounced kurssurnurm saypen.

Good; OK!: Jó! Pronounced yo!

Very good: Nagyon jó. Pronounced nudyun yo.

Please: Kérem. Pronounced kay-rem.

Excuse me: Bocsánat. Pronounced bowch-AH-note.

One: Egy. Pronounced edge.

Two: Kettő. Pronounced kettur.

Three: Három. Pronounced harom.

Four: Négy. Pronounced nayd.

Budapest the Beautiful



Straddling the romantic Danube River, with the Buda Hills to the west and the start of the Great Plain to the east, Budapest is the most beautiful city in central Europe. And the human legacy is just as remarkable as Mother Nature’s. Architecturally, Budapest is a gem, with enough baroque, neoclassical, Eclectic and art nouveau (or Secessionist) buildings to satisfy anyone’s appetite. With parks brimming with attractions, museums filled with treasures, pleasure boats sailing up and down the scenic Danube and Turkish-era thermal baths belching steam, the Hungarian capital is a delight both by day and by night. The food and wine are excellent, cheap and in abundance and the nightlife is hot. Indeed, in recent years, Budapest has taken on the role of the region’s party town, especially in the warmer months when outdoor entertainment areas called kertek (literally ‘gardens’) heave with party makers.

Stroll along the Duna korzó, the riverside embankment on the Pest side, or across any of the Danube bridges past young couples embracing passionately. It’s then that you’ll feel the romance that, despite all attempts from both within and without to destroy it, has never died.

In September you can expect the temperatures to be in the 60's and 70's with 7 hours of sunshine each day.

After your included city tour of both Buda and Pest, you may wish to spend time exploring these "must see" sights:


Fisherman’s Bastion
“In a city of superlative views, some of the most memorable can be had from the landmark Fisherman’s Bastion.”—Adrian Bridge, travel writer, Daily Telegraph. Neo-gothic and neo-Romanesque structure built at the turn of the 20th century; seven towers, walking paths, and unobstructed city views from the terrace. Located on the Buda side, behind Matthias Church on Castle Hill. Fee in summer.

Gerbeaud Café
One of the city’s oldest cafés, noted for its fine cakes and pastries. Can be crowded at times, particularly at weekends, but in the summer the spread of its tables reaching into the lively Vörösmarty Square eases the congestion, while providing a fine place for watching the world go by.


Dohány utca Synagogue
“A neo-Moorish extravaganza that embodies the confidence and prosperity of the Budapest Jewish community at the end of the 19th century.”—Adam LeBor, Budapest-based author and journalist. Europe’s largest synagogue has a fantastically rich and spectacular, basilica-like interior, with carved pulpits, massive organ, and glittering chandeliers, all fully restored. Fee. Tip: The entrance ticket also gives access to the Jewish Museum next door and the Holocaust memorial courtyard to the rear.


Hungarian National Gallery
“An outstanding treasure of old and modern Hungarian fine arts of the long ago and more recent past.”—Erzsébet Marton, senior editorial staff member, Múzeum Café. Main building of the former Royal Palace, Castle Hill

Statue Park
Several Soviet-era statues and monuments—Lenin, Marx, Engel—were moved here in the early 1990s after the fall of Hungary’s communist regime. Impressive and sometimes, as intended, overpowering works of art. XXII.

St. Stephen’s Basilica
Budapest’s largest church houses the Szent Jobb (Holy Right Hand), the mummified hand of Hungary’s first king, St. Stephen. Organ concerts on Mondays, July-October. Tip: Take the lift to the cupola, from where can be had a grand bird’s-eye view of the Pest side of the city.

Széchenyi Baths
One of Europe’s largest spas includes 15 pools for swimming, massaging, and soaking, including year-round, outdoor thermal pools. Neo-baroque building constructed in 1913 and recently renovated. Watch the locals play chess on a table floating in the steamy water.


Hungarian National Museum
“Great spirits gave it birth at the same time as the British Museum and the Louvre were established.”—Erzsébet Marton. Permanent exhibition about Hungary’s history with English descriptions.